How to stop your dog from pulling on the leash

We've all seen the dog at the end of a taut leash, towing his person down the block. And we've seen the dog trotting calmly at his person's side. The difference is almost never the dog's personality. It's training.

This guide covers why dogs pull, a three-stage loose leash walking plan, four skills that make walks easier, and fixes for dogs who pull no matter what. It isn't a quick fix. Most families see measurable progress within a session or two.

The full method in three and a half minutes, with Kristen VanNess, KPA CTP, Head Trainer at Weather.pet. Jump to a stage:

• The 3-stage method0:00
• Stage 1: Walking basics0:17
• Stage 2: New environments1:17
• Stage 3: Distractions2:07
• Bonus: Untangle the leash3:06

Why do dogs pull on the leash?

They're faster than us. Most dogs' natural walking pace is quicker than ours.

They want to zig-zag. Dogs follow their noses and eyes. A sidewalk has two directions, and your dog can guess which one you're taking.

Walking at your side is less fun. From a dog's point of view, a slow, straight line isn't as interesting as exploring on his own.

We accidentally trained it. A curious puppy moves toward something and we follow with tension on the leash. He learns pulling gets him closer. Every time we step forward on a tight leash, pulling works. This is the big one, and it's the one you control.

Before you start

Burn some energy first. Exercise before a training session makes the session more efficient: a game of tug or fetch in the house, a yard session, or a trip to a field.

Pick treats your dog loves. Two or three kinds, pea-sized, even for a big dog. Keep them in a treat pouch or pocket for quick access.

Start small. A hallway, backyard, or driveway. About 15 to 25 feet of space is plenty.

Choose equipment. A flat collar or front-clip harness and a non-retractable leash that's comfortable to hold. Retractable leashes teach dogs that pulling earns more freedom.

Decide what you'll do about regular walks. If some walks are training and others let him pull "because he needs a walk," he'll keep testing which kind of day it is. Either pause regular walks for a bit and meet his exercise needs with play and tricks, or use different equipment for each: a back-clip harness for walks where pulling is allowed, a collar or front clip for training.

Loose leash walking, step by step

Stage 1: Walking basics

Goal: your dog walks with you for about 25 feet. Not far, but it's the foundation.

1. Walk backward. Encourage your dog to follow you. Reward close to your knees every 1 to 2 steps. One step, treat. One step, treat. Deliver treats at head height or lower to discourage jumping.
2. Build the chain. When he follows reliably, ask for 5 steps in a row.
3. Rotate to your side. Now turn so he's beside you. Reward every step at first, right next to your knee. Use your left hand if he's on your left, your right hand if he's on your right, so he doesn't cross in front of you.
4. Space out the treats. 3 to 4 steps, then 5 to 10, then more.
5. If he surges ahead, pause or turn and go the other way. If he gets distracted, go back to walking backward and rebuild.

Pick one side per session. There's no correct side for a neighborhood walk, and many city dogs benefit from learning both.

Watch Stage 10:17

Stage 2: New environments

Your dog learns that walking with you works everywhere, not just in the hallway. Pick a quiet park, parking lot, or field. Repeat Stage 1: backward walking, then side by side, back and forth on a 25-foot path. Then stretch the path a few feet each pass.

If your dog is too distracted to eat treats, he's not in a state to learn. Stop, try again later, or switch to something better: canned dog food, boiled chicken, a little fish.

Suburban families can drive to a park and train for 5 minutes, then move to a different spot and train for 5 more. City families can expand the path a little on each repetition until they reach the corner. Bring enough treats to get home before you run out.

Watch Stage 21:17

Stage 3: Distractions

Distractions are the hard part for most dogs. The strategy is distance.

1. Choose a starting distance where your dog can pass the distraction without pulling. For some dogs that's a few feet. For others it's 30.
2. Walk past or arc around at that distance. Praise and reward calm walking.
3. After one or two clean passes, move a little closer.
4. If he lunges or pulls, you're too close. Stop, wait for him to look at you, or turn away. Make the next pass wider.

Watch Stage 32:07

Seek out practice opportunities instead of avoiding every distraction. If joggers are the trigger, find a path with a grassy area beside it. Walk back and forth 30 feet from the path, then 27, then closer, over several outings. And if you arrive at the park to find a disc dog tournament, it's fine to walk somewhere else today.

4 skills for better walks

Pace changes

In a quiet spot, speed up when your dog is paying attention and reward him for matching you. Build to your fastest comfortable pace. Then do the reverse: slow way down, and when he matches, stop and reward.

Stop when you stop

When your dog is focused on you, stop walking. The moment all four feet stop, feed 3 to 10 treats at your side, one at a time. Then go. He'll learn to stop beside you without a word.

A calm stand is fine. There's no need for a sit. Many dogs, especially short-coated ones, dislike sitting on wet, cold, or hot pavement, and some surfaces run much hotter than the air, as our asphalt readings show. Long-coated dogs who stand also bring home less mud, snow, and leaves.

Quick turnarounds

For hazards and surprises. When your dog is focused, say his name and turn briskly the other way. Make a big deal when he comes with you: several treats, a rolled treat to chase, praise. Practice at random times on walks.

Untangle the leash

Let enough leash drape that it touches the ground. Use a treat or hand touch to guide your dog to step his front feet back over it. Gently take up the slack. Keep the leash loose, but not so loose he keeps tangling.

Watch the 20-second fix3:06

My dog still pulls: fixes that work

The rewards aren't rewarding. Your dog decides what's a reward, not you. If treats aren't increasing walking at your side, upgrade: boiled chicken, canned food, fish-flavored treats. Watch his reaction. You want a dog asking for more, not politely taking it and wandering off.

The environment is too distracting. Go back to a more boring place. You're not avoiding the problem forever. You're building a foundation.

The treat position pulls him forward. Feeding in front of you draws your dog in front of you. Feed with your fingers pointed behind you so he eats at your side.

Ping-pong walking. He takes the treat and lunges forward again. Vary your speed, and vary the number of treats: sometimes one, sometimes three in a row.

The loop is too big. Walk back and forth on a 50-foot stretch in front of your house until the environment gets boring. Expand by 5 to 10 feet every few passes. Some dogs need days or weeks here.

His needs aren't met. Walking at your side in a busy place isn't fun for most dogs. Give him time to run, sniff, and explore before, during, or separate from training walks.

The equipment needs an upgrade. For very strong or intense dogs, a front-clip harness adds control. It still needs training alongside.

Heeling vs. loose leash walking

Heeling is a formal position from competition obedience. The dog walks close on the handler's left, matches pace, turns with the handler, and sits when the handler stops. Rally obedience is a more relaxed version.

Loose leash walking means no tension on the leash. Some trainers mean at your side. Others mean anywhere within the leash's range.

You get to decide what you want. Heeling helps in crowded places like a farmers market. A loose leash makes for a more peaceful everyday walk. To start on heeling, work through the stages above with your dog on your left, and reward generously when his head is up.

Leash walking myths

"Dogs must walk on the left." That's a competition rule. For everyday walks, either side works, or both. Just teach him not to switch sides unless invited.

"Dogs should sit every time you stop." Also from competition. Standing is fine, and often more comfortable for your dog, especially on wet, cold, hot, or prickly ground, or for dogs with sore joints.

"Your dog should always walk at your side." Stricter early in training makes sense, and it's important with large or strong dogs in busy places. In an empty field, letting him sniff and explore is fine.

"Your dog should greet people on walks." Socialization doesn't require interaction. Walking calmly past people is a win. You can always say, "Not today, thank you."

How to leash train a puppy

Start inside or in the yard, especially before your puppy is fully vaccinated. Our puppy vaccine schedule covers when outdoor practice can start.

Gear: a lightweight 6 to 8 foot leash and a flat collar or harness with a large, easy-to-clip ring. Skip chain leashes (heavy) and retractable leashes (they reward pulling).

First sessions: put the collar or harness on during play or training games so it predicts fun. Keep it to a few minutes. When you attach the leash, move playfully, pat your leg, crouch down. Try to keep him from hitting the end of the leash.

First steps: play first so his need to run is met. Then ask him to follow you for 1 to 2 steps and reward by your leg. Build from there. If he pulls ahead, turn and go the other way.

Leash training in any weather

Training sessions work better when your dog is comfortable. In heat, train early or late and keep sessions short. In cold or wet weather, do the hallway and driveway stages indoors or close to home. On days when your dog's Dog Feel° reads HIGH RISK, work the Stage 1 skills inside and save the distraction work for a better window.

Frequently asked questions

How do I stop my dog from pulling on the leash? Never move forward while the leash is tight, and reward your dog generously for walking at your side. Start in a small, boring space, then practice in new places, then add distractions at a distance your dog can handle.

How long does it take to leash train a dog? Most families see progress within a session or two, but reliable loose leash walking around distractions usually takes weeks of consistent practice. Some dogs need extra time in low-distraction spaces first.

Why does my dog pull on the leash so hard? Dogs walk faster than we do, want to explore, and often learn that pulling gets them where they want to go. If pulling ever moves you forward, it's being rewarded.

Do no-pull harnesses stop dogs from pulling? A front-clip harness gives you more control and helps, but it doesn't replace training. Clip the leash at the chest, not the back, and train alongside it.

What's the difference between heel and loose leash walking? Heel is a precise competition position on your left side. Loose leash walking simply means no tension on the leash. Most families want loose leash walking for everyday walks.

Should my dog sit when we stop on a walk? It's not necessary. A calm stand works, and many dogs are more comfortable standing on hot, cold, or wet pavement.

How do I leash train a puppy? Start indoors or in the yard. Pair the collar or harness with play, use a lightweight non-retractable leash, and reward your puppy for following you a step or two at a time.

Related reading: Mental stimulation for dogs: 8 indoor brain games · How cold is too cold to walk a dog? · Asphalt vs. air temperature: what we measured